Bore Buddy Resources

FAQ

Forced Reset Trigger (FRT) FAQ

Dead triggers and light strikes are the most common malfunction in FRT mode. If you get a couple shots off and then a dead trigger with a light strike, this is typically short stroking. Short stroking occurs when the bolt does not travel rearward far enough to reset the hammer, and hammer follow occurs. In semi-auto mode, this can result in multiple shots being fired as the hammer rides the bolt forward and can set off a primer during hammer follow.

Solutions (generally in order of easiest/cheapest to hardest/most expensive:

    • Reduce bolt weight: Too much weight will cause short stroking. Drop back to a lighter set point until perfect function is achieved in semi-auto, then test FRT. Drop back more if necessary

    • Reduce Trigger pressure: The harder you squeeze, the more force is required to bump a trigger reset. Squeeze lightly or farther towards the top of the trigger.

    • Hotter ammo: If the above fails, step up in ammo quality and velocity. Doing so will move the proper weight set point up and allow function. 40gr Mini Mags are the ammo we use 99% of the time.

  • Longer barrel: Short barrels reduce the velocity of all ammo. Mini mags run around 1250fps from a 12″ or longer barrel, but generally run around 1080fps from a 7″ and 950fps from a 4.9″. If your barrel is below 12″, consider a longer barrel, or go back to ammo and try a hyper velocity (1400fps or more) load such as CCI Stingers, CCI Velocitors, Aguila Interceptors, etc.)

For FRT/SUPER SAFETY/ARC/ Atrius/Full Auto tuning CLICK HERE

The only AR22 platform that is Forced Reset Trigger (FRT) compatible is the BoreBuddy AR22 ecosystem including all Borebuddy dedicated uppers and 22lr conversion kits.  You can choose your preferred trigger from the dropdown menu on the product page when ordering.  NOTE: NOT ALL TRIGGERS ARE EQUAL FOR 22LR USE — SEE OUR TRIGGER GUIDE.

Our two certified triggers are the ARC-FIRE and the Atrius with Rave 140.

For the Atrius Selektor, we recommend the following setup:

BoreBuddy Upper (12″ or longer barrel) with Selektor add-on

Atrius Selektor

Rave 140 trigger

Kriss Magazines

Ammo: CCI 40gr Mini Mags or Cascade 50gr subs

 

For the ARC-FIRE We recommend the following setup:

BoreBuddy Upper (12″ or longer barrel) with ARC-FIRE add-on

ARC-FIRE Trigger

Kriss Magazines

Ammo: CCI 40gr Mini Mags or Cascade 50gr subs

 

Here are the most popular 12″ or longer uppers for FRT:

Complete AR22 Apogee Match Uppers (Gen 2)

Tucked AR22 Uppers (Gen 2)

Complete AR22 Apogee Uppers (Gen 2)

Complete AR22 Economy Uppers

 

Premium upper options: BoreBuddy Precision

 

The most common AR Style 22lr platforms that customers ask about which are NOT FRT compatible:

S&W 15-22

Tippmann M4-22

TacSol/Tactical Solutions

Chiappa

HK 416 22LR

Hammerli

Rock River Arms

Bear Creek Arsenal

NOT ALL TRIGGERS ARE EQUAL FOR 22LR USE — SEE OUR FULL TRIGGER GUIDE.

FRT Style Triggers fall into two broad categories with many derivatives of each of the two main types:

Category 1: Super Safety and Derivatives (generally easy)

Category 2: Rare Breed and Clones (generally more troublesome)

 

All the FRT triggers listed in the guide can be used with 22lr, but each is unique in how easily it is able to be tuned for reliable and repeatable function with 22LR. 

Note that function with a 223/556/300BLK or other centerfire does not indicate whether that trigger will or will not work easily with 22lr.

Adjustable Weight Kit

For FRT/SUPER SAFETY/ARC/ Atrius/Full Auto tuning CLICK HERE

TL;DR: If your barrel is less than 12″ (14.5″ if using a conversion kit) get the lightweight kit (or pistol bundle). If your barrel is 12″ (14.5″ with conversion kit) or longer, get the stainless adjustable (or rifle bundle), unless you are planning to use primarily SV and subsonic, then get the lightweight.  

Generally we recommend the following as a starting point, broken down by barrel length and ammo type:

12-16″ barrel:

High velocity ammo: Stainless adjustable using steel internal weights

Standard velocity ammo: Stainless adjustable using aluminum or steel internal weights, or lightweight adjustable using steel internal weights.

Subsonic ammo: Stainless adjustable using aluminum internal weights or lightweight adjustable using steel internal weights.

8-11.5″ barrel:

High velocity ammo: Stainless adjustable using aluminum internal weights or lightweight adjustable using steel internal weights

Standard velocity ammo: Lightweight adjustable using steel or aluminum internal weights

Subsonic ammo: Lightweight adjustable using steel or aluminum internal weights

4-7″ barrel:

High velocity ammo: Lightweight adjustable using steel or aluminum internal weights

Standard velocity ammo: Lightweight adjustable using aluminum internal weights*

Subsonic ammo: Lightweight adjustable using aluminum internal weights*

*Cycling problems may occur when using subsonic or SV ammo with a very short barrel. Remove the weight if consistent trigger resetting issues are experienced. Short barrels result in HV ammo being subsonic and subsonic ammo being very subsonic.

The weight decreases bolt bounce and reduces bolt velocity, all other things held constant.  This results in reduced or eliminated port pop when shooting suppressed and less fouling in the action both suppressed and unsuppressed.  Eliminating bolt bounce is critical for full auto function.  

Optimized bolt velocity means the powder burns more fully before the case is extracted, reducing fouling, noise and gas blowback to the shooter. It makes the rifle feel smoother, and reduces battering of the bolt carrier and lower receiver (especially when combined with a buffer), and also increases consistency shot to shot with the cartridge in battery longer.

Testing bolt weight function and/or tuning (requires true last round bolt hold open): Choose the lightest configuration (aluminum body, aluminum internal weights), load a single round into the rifle with a magazine and fire (in a safe and legal manner). If the bolt locks back, increase weight in your adjustable bolt weight one step.  Repeat until bolt hold open fails and then reduce one step.  At that reduced weigth, fire at least 10 shots to verify consistency of bolt hold open.

If your rifle is not equipped with a last round bolt hold open that works with the bolt release lever (no, the CMMG/Black Dog mag follower hold open does not count), check for the trigger reset.  Increase weight one step at a time until the trigger fails to reset, then lighten by 2-3 steps. 

If you reach maximum bolt weight and all 10 rounds result in bolt hold open and trigger reset, leave the weight at heaviest configuration.  

TLDR: Deluxe Weight


If using an FRT or a mix of ammo types in semi-auto or barrels less than 12″, the deluxe weight is recommended.

For high velocity ammo only in barrels 12″ or longer, the deluxe weight kit or standard adjustable weight kit.

For standard velocity or subsonic ammo or barrels less than 12″, the deluxe weight kit

There are many variables involved in a blowback system, and for the sake of the majority of this discussion, we’ll assume that bolt mass is held constant (more on this later). Listed roughly in order of significance:

Ammunition: This one’s pretty obvious, the more powerful the ammo, (generally) the more impulse that pushes back on the bolt.

Without getting too far into the weeds on the physics, when a force summed up over time, you get a quantity known as “impulse” (in the weeds: impulse is the integration of the force with respect to time, or the area under the force-time curve). Simplified, if the force is constant, the impulse is force multiplied by time. This why, for example, you can floor your car and get to 60mph in 10 seconds (high force), or you can gently accelerate and get to 60mph in 30 seconds (low force). Either way the impulse is the same, and it resulted in you getting to 60mph, but the forces were different as was the time that that force acted over. A small force acting over a long period of time can result in the same velocity as a large force acting over a short time. Remember about impulse for later.

In the AR22 as in other blowback semi-autos, the impulse is caused by the pressure generated during firing pushing back against the case, and thus pushing on the bolt, causing it to move and cycle. Something like a CCI Velocitor (40gr, 1435fps) has a much higher total impulse than, say, a CCI Quiet-22 (40gr, 710fps). With the same bolt mass, the Velocitor will cause a much higher bolt velocity.

What does this mean for me? It means that at some point, if you use ammo low enough on the power spectrum, your gun will cease to cycle fully or at all. Conversely, if you use high powered ammo, you may get an undesirably high bolt velocity (which is then corrected by adding mass to the bolt…more on this later)

Barrel length: Again, we’re oversimplifying here, but remember impulse and how it gets larger if the force has more time to work? This is why longer barrels lengths result in higher velocities — the force has more time to push on the bullet. Likewise, the bolt will gain more velocity with longer barrels.

What does this mean for me? It means that the longer the barrel, the lower power ammo you can cycle given the same bolt mass. For example a 4.5″ upper may be able to barely cycle federal bulk pack (36gr 1260fps) while a 16″ upper may not only cycle but have an undesirably high bolt velocity (which is then corrected by adding mass to the bolt…more on this later)

Springs: Springs have a smaller effect than you may initially think — at the instant the cartridge is ignited, there are several forces in play. There is the force from the recoil spring and hammer springs that are holding the bolt back, and then there is the force generated when the cartridge ignites. Imagine a minivan stalled on a railroad track with a train quickly approaching. Now imagine that an elephant is standing outside the van pushing on the van in order to try to hold it still when the train hits. That elephant standing there is like the spring — it is are imparting a force on the van that seems pretty large if you don’t consider the train, but compared to the train, the force doesn’t amount to much at all. If you increase the spring power (say by putting a big dodge ram diesel pushing against the minivan, you can counteract some of the force of firing, but it’s still pretty minimal in the scheme of things.

Once the bullet leaves the barrel, however, and the force from the firing goes to zero, and the springs begin slowing the bolt down gradually over the travel of the bolt. Swapping to heavier springs can influence how hard the bolt hits at the rear of travel, but they don’t slow the bolt much initially.

What does this mean for me? It means that unless you’re shooting very low powered ammo that is barely able to cycle the action, you’re not going to see much change with reasonable changed in spring strengths. You’ll probably read on the forums at some point about reduced power hammer springs being needed to cycle with subsonics and/or short barrels, which falls into the “barely cycling” or “almost cycling” category.

Bolt Mass: Finally, we can discuss bolt mass. If all things are held constant, and you add mass, the bolt velocity drops. So adding a BoreBuddy weight results in lower bolt velocity with a given ammo, barrel, and spring combo. Optimizing bolt velocity smooths out the operation of the system and helps with reliability.

What does this mean for me? Added weight and thus optimized bolt velocity means the powder burns more fully before the case is extracted, reducing fouling, noise and gas blowback to the shooter. It makes the rifle feel smoother, and reduces battering of the bolt carrier and lower receiver (especially when combined with a buffer), and also increases consistency shot to shot with the cartridge in battery longer.

Other FAQS

Yes, all our rimfire barrels are 1/2-28 threaded at the muzzle for use with standard muzzle devices and suppressors unless you choose one of our non-threaded options for state law compliance.  

Conversion kits from other companies can be converted to a dedicated bolt quite easily by swapping out the chamber adapter with a barrel collar.  We offer a standard steel collar as well as our polymer buffered Quiet Collar which is optimized for suppressed shooting.  

Aside from a quality upper and good ammo, the magazine you choose has a large amount to do with how well your AR22 build functions.  

We recommend the following:

For true last round bolt hold open, choose Kriss Mags with upgraded springs.

For general use, choose Black Dog Mags

Our Barrels (with a few exceptions) are 1-12″ twist Suppressor Ready.  Unlike the industry standard 16″ twist that can leave some bullets over 40gr partially stable or unstable, our Suppressor Ready barrels will stabilize all bullets up to 60gr.  

Reliability (Especially with FRT):

Ammo matters in rimfire builds much more than centerfire for basic function.  40gr round nose CCI Mini Mags are the gold standard for an ammo type that is reliable across all build types and all barrel lengths. 

Bulk Grade Ammo:

Bulk packed or very cheap ammo can be great or can be terrible.  We’ve had decent luck with Aguila SuperExtra HV 40gr,  Aguila SuperExtra HV 38gr HP and Armscor HV.

Subsonic options:

For semi-auto only suppressed builds, nearly all subs 40gr or higher 950 fps or higher work great in barrel lengths 7 and above.  Note that for 4.9″ barrels we recommend using Mini Mag HV ammo since they are also subsonic.  Most HV loads will be subsonic in 7″ barrels under most conditions.  

For FRT, we recommend 50gr Cascade subsonics

Match Ammo:

A couple great basic and affordable match ammo options are Eley Contact and Eley Force.  Both run and shoot really well in our uppers and barrels.  

SK Standard, SK Rifle Match, SK Long Range Match, and Lapua Center-X are some great choices if cost is no object.  

Tracers:

22LR Tracers are fun.  We recommend shooting them at least once in your life!

The Magpul B.A.D. Lever is incompatible with most billet uppers and can cause malfunctions from bolt drag.  It is thicker than milspec latch drawings allow, and will hold the bolt catch upward due to contact with the upper on the back of the catch.  We recommend avoiding the B.A.D. lever or making appropriate modifications to allow clearance between the lever and the upper.  

Semi-auto builds will generally run with most trigger types.  If using a drop in trigger or reduced power hammer spring, we recommend the super strike firing pin.  

Some we like are the Geissele SSA-E, LaRue MBT-2S, Rave 140.

Cleaning and Break-in

Barrel Break-In Proceedure

Aside from cleaning the barrel when you get it, there is no break in procedure.  Unless you opted for the VIP service, it generally takes around 500 rounds of one type of ammo to get a full season inside the barrel and for groups to settle in at the best they will be.  VIP barrels are pre-seasoned and should shoot at their best within a box of your chosen ammo.  

Nitrided barrels can have some salt residue left from the nitriding process.  This salt is water soluble, so a few passes with water wetted patches first, followed by a few dry patches are recommended.  

We generally recommend cleaning the chamber only for routine cleaning.  A patch soaked in C4 Carbon remover does a good job.  

Cleaning the barrel aggressively will remove the season which is not recommended (think cleaning a cast iron pan with dish soap and a scotchbrite pad — Now your eggs stick and it’s a disaster until the seasoning is rebuilt).  A pass or two with a patch soaked in a gentle solvent every 5000 or so rounds is about all we do on the bores.  

One part of the VIP process is a pre-seasoning with a bore paste we developed to work well with the lube on most 22lr ammo.  This cuts down the need to shoot 500 rounds of your chose match ammo to get the best groups it is capable of, which saves quite a bit of cash with current ammo prices!